Articles from our
July/August Issue
Buying & Selling Horses:
The Art Of The Low-Ball Offer
Everyone loves stories that start out, "I got my Grand Prix horse for a six pack of beer and two goats." But, realistically, good horses cost money. Before a buyer writes the check, he'll probably have a moment when he's sorely tempted to throw out a low-ball offer -- "just to see what happens." Sometimes a low-ball offer works; sometimes it doesn't. Let's take a look low-ball offers from both the buyer's and the seller's points of view.
Rule of thumb might define a normal offer as one that is 75% or more of the asking price. On a $10,000 horse, the buyer might offer $7,500. Negotiations can be expected to conclude halfway between $10,000 and $7,500. When the offer is below the 75% line, the buyer is asking the seller to make a big compromise. An offer of 50% or less is low-ball. Low-ball offers can and do get accepted, but it depends on many factors: how eager the seller is to sell; how the pre-purchase exam went; if the seller has other interested buyers; and how tactfully the low-ball offer is presented.
Advice For Buyers
Gary is a breeder of Anglo-Arabians in Colorado. He says, "If you offer more than half of the asking price and do it right, it shouldn't be insulting." As most people can imagine, the wrong thing to say would be, 'you think your horse is worth what?! Forget it! I'll give you half of that and you can spend it on getting your head examined.' To tender a very low offer correctly, instructs Gary, "don't disparage the horse. Instead, tell the seller that your offer is based on what you can afford."
Dolores, an amateur rider in Ohio, says, "I ask if the price is firm. If the other guy won't negotiate and I can't afford the horse, why waste anyone's time? It doesn't do any good to fall in love with a horse that I can't afford! If the buyer will consider lower offers, I look the buyer (or his trainer or whoever) right in the eye and ask how much lower. It's awkward but you have to ask. If their idea of bargaining is taking $500 off and I need them to take $5,000 off, then again, I'd be wasting everyone’s time."
Dolores adds, "Especially if my offer is very low, I make sure my attitude is friendly. I explain that my offer is a reflection of my budget. I say I'll understand if they turn me down. This smooths things along, no matter what happens. I've purchased some very nice horses for way less than the starting price this way and I think everyone was happy in the end."
Liz Booth manages Virginia Sport Horses, where she sells horses for the dressage, eventing, and hunter/jumper disciplines. Liz says, "we sell and buy hundreds of horses every year. If you want to know how low a low-ball offer can go, I'd say it depends on the price of the horse, and whether the seller is a professional. If the buyer is purchasing from a breeder or a pro, and the horse is priced far higher than the cost of producing, raising, training and showing him (in other words, the seller has a high profit margin built into the asking price), then the buyer could 'low-ball' an offer which accurately reflects the horse's market value, and this offer should not be insulting. However, it won't work if the horse or his breeding is in high demand." Liz continues, "Low-ball offers are also acceptable at herd dispersals."
One New York pro said, “There are one or two riders who always want me to reduce my prices. When I see them coming, I know I'm going to get talked into making them a great deal. But these riders make up for it by always letting people know where they got their horses. They make a sincere effort to build my reputation and clientele. They consistently provide a referral service for me. Everybody wins."
The Seller’s Point Of View
Janet Salem is a professional in the Atlanta, Georgia, area. When Janet is selling a horse and a buyer inquires if the price is negotiable, Janet's answer is: "I make sure that this buyer won't waste my time. Say the horse is advertised for $25,000. I might tell the buyer that this horse is fairly priced at $25K. Barring unexpected findings on the pre-purchase exam, I expect the horse to sell for very close to that amount. If he's looking for a $15K horse, I don't think this is the one for him."
On the other hand, Gary, an Anglo-Arabian breeder in Colorado, points out that there are times when the seller actually should consider a low bid. "If you've been trying to sell the horse for a while and had no good offers, your asking price may be too high. In that case, consider the low-ball offer."
A Story Of A Bad Low-Ball Offer
Liz Booth, manager of Virigina Sport Horses, says, "Perhaps the most upsetting low-ball offer that I ever received was bad because of the dishonesty. I had a nice, sound, talented hunter 'A' show prospect. The horse was for sale at a firm price. The customer misrepresented herself as a mother who ' . . . just wanted a fun pony that her kids could enjoy . . . they were sick of the A shows and just want to have fun.' I found out through the grapevine that my horse was indeed being evaluated as an 'A' prospect.
"The buyer asked for a trial, which isn't my normal practice. I conceded to the request but stipulated that it be for 48 hours for the purpose of vetting only. I also confirmed their understanding that the price was firm. Well, my horse was MIA for a whole week! My phone calls were ignored . . . until the buyer responded with a low-ball offer. She'd needed a week because they'd taken three other prospects and had all four vetted. The other three horses failed. My horse passed. The seller asked me to accept $3,000 less because the vettings had eaten into their budget!
"I refused the offer and after that, I increased the price of the gelding by $2,500, knowing that he had 'passed muster.' I sold him (to someone else!) two months later. Moral of the story . . . don't expect a seller to discount the price of a sound horse by the price of your vetting expenses and don’t follow dishonest purchasing behavior with a low-ball offer."
[There's lots more to this article. To read the entire article, be sure to get a copy of our May/June 2008 Issue.]
A Dressage Lesson:
Stop Riding With Stiff Arms!
Having earned his Bronze, Silver and Gold Medals, Tim Malin approaches his education and goals with a laser-like focus. Ranked among the top 16 Grand Prix level pairs in the U.S. last year, Tim and Coolio earned a spot at the National Championships and they placed 13th in the National Grand Prix at Gladstone. International competition looms on the horizon. Tim runs his business, Golden Mean, LLC, in Wellington, Florida, and in South Windsor, Connecticut.
The First Two Causes Of Stiff Arms
"At some time or another, all of us have ridden with stiff arms. The first reason is a fear issue. Something intimidates the rider; clutching is her mechanical reaction. If you look at this rider from the side, you'll see her hollow out her body's profile by rounding her shoulder, dropping her pelvis forward and pulling her arms back. Her horse ends up on his forehand. The whole thing snowballs, with the rider relying more and more on her upper arm strength and the horse leaning harder and harder.
"What is this rider afraid of? She could be overmounted. She doesn't feel that she has control. A trainer can teach her horse to be more obedient, bringing this horse within his rider's skill set. Meanwhile, the rider might practice on a different horse, hopefully learning to relax her arms.
"The rider might feel overfaced by the height of the jumps she's jumping, or by the level she's showing in the dressage arena. She might be recovering emotionally from a riding accident, or she could be concerned with making a mistake. Back it down a level or two, until the task is within the rider’s comfort zone.
"Riders need enough stimulus, enough challenge, that they don't feel their riding has become stagnant. To that extent, it's good to work outside your comfort zone. Yet the rider should never feel so stressed or overwhelmed that locked elbows become her defense."
Reason #2: "The second possible reason for riding with stiff arms is a lack of awareness within yourself. Some people ride mechanically. They need to learn to be aware of feedback from their own bodies (and, eventually, from the horse) in order to improve. This rider isn't getting feedback on what her own body is doing.
"Riding is more than position and commands to the horse. You need a connection within yourself before you can find the connection to the horse called 'feel.' Stand on the ground and hold your reins, with a friend holding the horse's end of the reins. Can you accurately judge the application and release of pressure? You must perceive the amount of muscle tension in your arm. You have to feel yourself apply the rein aids. You have to feel yourself release the rein aids.
"Only then you can learn to feel the horse respond to the aids. You're trying to give a rein aid and feel what you accomplished with it--did you create a lighter horse? Tell him 'good boy!' Be aware when you’ve produced a positive reaction and, equally, when the horse's reaction is negative. Is the horse still feeling tanky or heavy? You'll address that, but at least now you know that you've given the aid, released the aid, and judged the horse’s response."
[Tim specifies more reasons why riders lock their arms! Please read our July Issue to enjoy the whole article. Excerpt from July/August 2008 Issue.]
For Eventers:
Cross Country Equitation
Meika Decher is a three day eventing rider/trainer who loves the speed and skill of riding Advanced cross country courses on horses she has trained herself. She has recently moved her Polestar Farm back to her home state of Washington. Meika says, "Event riders don't usually talk about equitation, not the same way riders in other sports do. All the variables--the kind of horse you're riding, the terrain, the types of obstacles--make the perfect cross country position hard to quantify. Ours is a more functional equitation: you do what you have to do to cope with a situation. That said, you can't ignore your basic position in the saddle. The eventer who forgets to think about position . . . well, the cross country course will remind her very quickly.
"Every time you ride out, you'll be reminded that you need a secure lower leg. That's the Number One thing. The lower leg is the rider's base of support. Her ability to cope with terrain, to balance her horse, and to have stability in the saddle on the approach to the jump, over the top, and during the landing, all require a strong lower leg.
"The rider's lower leg needs to be deep into the heel. It needs to stay at the girth, rather than slipping back or sliding forward. Commonly, the lower leg slips back and causes the rider's upper body to tip forward. When the horse feels his rider slump forward, he loses his balance, too. Now nobody's balanced! And when the rider has fallen onto her horse's neck, the horse won't feel the aids from the rider’s seat bones. Those seatbones are the driving aid that says, "jump the jump!" No leg, no seat, no balance, no upper body, and who knows what the rider's hands are doing . . . the horse is might say, 'I'm outa here!' And you’ll pay the price with a refusal or run-out.
"Admittedly, it's hard to come up with a hard-and-fast rule for position when you're riding cross country. Sometimes you want to find a more secure seat by pushing your lower leg forward and keeping your body behind the horse's motion. This is a more defensive position, a stronger position on a spooky or difficult horse, or for jumping downhill or off a drop."
Upper Body & Hands
"The Number Two priority regarding position would have to be the rider's ability to control her upper body. When you're out on the cross country, think about never jumping ahead or being in front of the horse's motion. Of course, control of upper body movement stems from have a secure lower leg.
"Some riders tip back on the landing side of the jumps. Once again, a weak leg has allowed the rider to get snapped back and fall behind her horse on the landing. She'll probably catch her horse in the mouth. She's unprepared for whatever comes next . . . and I sure hope it's not a combination jump! Can you suffer from falling forward on the horse's neck and getting thrown backwards at the jumps? Oh, yes, you can do both. If you want to see that, just volunteer to be a jump judge for a day.
"An independent hand is very important. You need the ability to keep a consistent connection with the horse's mouth no matter what your upper body is doing before, over and after the jump. If you fall behind the horse’s motion, slip your reins! You've watched enough other riders going cross country to see why this is crucial. Again, security in the saddle is the only thing that will enable you to keep a 'feeling' connection through your hands."
[This article offers lots more great information! To read it all, please order a back issue of our July/August 2008 Issue.]
For Hunters & Jumpers:
Making The Most Of A Short Stride
No horse is perfect. Sometimes an otherwise wonderful horse doesn't have as much stride as his rider might wish. Any rider in this situation looks for ways to maximize the horse's step. There are ways to address this concern, promises professional trainer Anne Eccles.
Anne Eccles begins, "I've worked with many types of horses and ponies. Just as not all people are built like Julia Roberts or George Clooney, not all horses have the same body type or length of stride. We don't give up on ourselves for not meeting a perfect standard, so I don't think we should give up on the shorter-strided horses just because they're not perfect.
"The first horse I ever owned was short-strided. Currently there's a pony in my lesson program who has a short stride, and one of the horses I showed successfully for a client on our local circuit was also not blessed with a big stride. It's okay!
"Smaller horses can be short strided just because of their smaller build. I have a client who is aging off a medium pony. She's a tiny girl. I think a smaller horse will be appropriate for her. She'd definitely look too small on a big Warmblood. I'm sure a really big horse would be intimidating for her, not only when riding but also when working with the horse from the ground. I also teach several beginning adults who just aren't comfortable on larger horses. The ground is a lot farther away on a 17 hand horse! When looking for a horse for a beginning rider, an older, possibly slightly arthritic horse whose stride has shortened with age might be just the right match.
"Working with short-strided horses can be a learning opportunity. At the beginner level, a slower pace and a shorter stride may be just what is needed to build confidence and stability. If a rider is small of stature but has strength and confidence, a short strided horse can teach her the skills needed to get the most from the horse. She can learn to create a quality canter so that horse can do the lines in the correct numbers and not just run around the course like it's the Indy 500.
"If, however, you want to go to the Capital Challenge and be competitive, a short-strided horse would not be a good choice," Anne warns.
Adding The Stride
Every rider has, at some point, jumped into a line and realized that the out-jump is much too far away. It can be a scary moment. Should you clamp your leg on and run for it? Pull on the reins to fit in an extra step (hopefully in a graceful manner)?
Anne says, "Jumpers, in my opinion, should add strides in any case where the extra step helps them jump the fence well. You don't want to be running at a jump and let your horse get flat--that will cost you rails! I also wouldn't fault an equitation horse for adding in a bending line. To me, that's an option for the rider to show what works best for her particular horse."
Another consideration, agree trainers, is the horse's overall scope. A brave horse with lots of scope through the air can overcome some of the limitations set by a short stride. But if a horse lacks jumping scope as well as stride, he faces a serious challenge. His forte may be the small fences and friendly distances found in the novice ring.
A hunter that's slightly short-strided can be a very attractive jumper. This horse has to try a little harder to clear the out-oxers, with the result that he's extra tidy with his front end in the air. While it can be a challenge for the rider to help this horse cover the distance in the lines, the good news is a stylish out-jump.
Improving A Short-Strided Horse:
Exercises At Home
Anne remarks. "If you're working with an older, arthritic horse, there are several things that may lengthen his stride. Avoid hard or uneven footing that would make him uncomfortable. Take the time to warm him up thoroughly each time you ride. Keep him warm when it’s cold outside. Details like this are important. Your vet and farrier can help as well. Possibly joint injections or special shoeing can help. The older horse can work for a long time if treated with care.
"Any time you have a nice horse with questionable length of stride, you can design exercises at home to address the problem. On the flat, practice changing stride length within the gaits. Alternate between collected trot, working trot and extended trot. Practice going from collected canter to working canter to extended canter. Counter canter on the weaker lead is a great exercise, as are lots of transitions.
"When you school over fences, think about strengthening your horse's hind end. Gymnastics which develop power in his hind end will maximize his ability to push strongly across his fences. If his hind end is strong, he can push off and cover more ground with his canter without falling on his forehand."
[The article offers additional exercises for horses and riders working to lengthen the stride. Excerpt From July/August 2008]
July/Aug 2008
